Day #14 – My Roots Tour’s End

I’m home and thinking about our trip to Germany.

Many smart, kind, generous people made this trip possible and special.

Already, I miss the coffee and my new friends.

German coffee: strong and good. I’d order a cup for Jeffrey and drink his too.

On prior trips to Germany, I couldn’t sleep. I feared that Hitler would jump out of the closet in my hotel room or that I would be arrested on the street. In those days, former German Nazis were alive and well.

Today, the youngest Hitler voter would be 110 years old. A Nazi soldier aged 18 in 1945 would be 95 now. My fear of the old Nazis is gone.

Many thoughts whirl in my head. This trip involved visits to my family’s hometowns and to historic sites, and talking about the present and the past with today’s Germans. This was not a cemetery tour. We did not say Kaddish for people I never knew or met. “Been there, done that.”

This tour engaged me with Germans born after WWII. We put aside who was responsible for the war. None of us in the post-war generation was responsible for anything.

Like me, these Germans were raised by parents who had suffered. My parents’ trauma came from being frightened and uprooted, from being strangers in strange lands. The Germans’ parents were scarred by invasions, bombing, hunger, years of military service, years in prison camps; some screamed in their sleep.

Our parents’ traumas great and small influenced our childhood development. We shared stories and the effects the war era had on us, the second generation. We lived with parents who acted out their pain, or refused to talk about their experiences, or searched for their lost childhoods. Sometimes this made us anxious and scared. Sometimes we pass our anxieties on to our own children.

My German contemporaries and I became friends. Our friendship has eased my mind. Our exchanges were meaningful and cathartic for all of us. My hope is that we can heal some of one another’s pain.

As I traveled from place to place, I couldn’t escape the fact that the Jewish people rooted in Germany for centuries, have vanished. Larger cities have a few Jews and synagogues, but most of those Jews are from the former Soviet bloc. There are a few Israeli transplants. The Jews who spoke and ate and joked and kept house and lived like my parents and their parents, are gone. They left Germany or were murdered.

It makes sense that the German Jews made new lives elsewhere for themselves and their descendants. But many Germans today miss the diversity that my family and others brought. Some of my new friends told me that they’re sad that people like us don’t live in town. They said that with Jewish neighbors, their communities would be more vibrant and interesting. We would have been friends.

Yet although most of Germany is as Hitler wished—Judenrein, free of Jews—my people triumphed in the end. My grandparents’ Jewish granddaughter stood atop the annihilated dictator’s Nuremberg platform. I towered over him!

As my husband says in Yiddish, the language of his grandparents, mir zaynen do.

Hirsh Glick (1922-1944) wrote the Yiddish Zog Nit Kaynmol (“Never Say”) or Partisaner Lid (“Partisan Song”), from which these words are taken, in the Vilna (Lithuania) Ghetto in 1943. Partisans spoke Yiddish, not German. Click here and scroll down to listen to a former partisan sing the song in 1946.

I thank everyone who made my trip so meaningful. There are too many to name. A few of the many who stand out:

Markus and Katrin included us in the wedding celebration of Lily (and Ross).
Siblings Moran (next to me) and Itamar (in hat), with whom I share Israel roots, welcomed us to Munich.
When Christian heard that my dad rode a Nuremberg tram to school, he broke museum rules, unlocked the tram and showed us around inside!
The women at a Nuremberg Lebkuchen store made me welcome and helped with my selection. They enjoyed hearing my family’s Lebkuchen story.
My Aschaffenburg friend Iris spent three days with us, organized tours, shared her stories and opened her home. Iris has helped me enormously with family research.
Achim took me around Kleinwallstadt and shared old documents from my forebears. He invited my father to share his memories with German students online.
Gerd in Reichelsheim showed me around and gave me a ton of information on the Joseph family. Louis Joseph, my cousin who in 1893 emigrated to the U.S. from Reichelsheim, made possible my father’s 1937 escape.
These new friends took us around Miltenberg and bought us dessert at Cafe Sel, where my parents went for treats when they were children.
Marga and her family continued my Alsfeld connection established by Marga’s late husband, Heinz. They helped me translate old handwritten letters.
Monika and her friends enriched our time in Alsfeld, where my mother was born and raised.
Daniela and Carolina spent a whole day giving us an inside look at the remnants of Jewish life in Alsfeld and their educational project, [click here] Speier House, in the neighboring town of Angenrod.
Aegedus (left) and Joachim (center) joined us for dinner as we talked about our lives and formed new friendships.
Melina saw two strangers outdoors in the dark and, unbidden, brought cleaning supplies to help us remove grafitti from a Jewish monument in Heidelberg.
A German Jewish immigrant from Russia told us about today’s Heidelberg Jewish community.

I thank my German tutor of four years, Daniela. Her teaching let me connect with (and impress) German speakers. She worked with me to translate old family letters to better understand what my parents and grandparents lived through.

I thank my therapist for helping me handle the complex emotions stirred up by this trip.

I thank my children and their spouses, and my sister and my dad for supporting me along the way. That my dad, now almost 96, traveled with me vicariously was wonderful. He answered questions and spoke to me daily, adding color and context to our family’s journey to America.

And most of all, I’m beyond grateful to my supportive husband, my beschert, my soulmate, Jeffrey, a Litvak for whom Germany is a disconcerting and alien land. He drove me over 1,000 miles and put up with hearing hours and hours of German every day. This was an emotionally difficult trip for him. Married for 42 years, best friends for 43, I’m lucky to have him in my life.

At the end of a trip, I’m always happy to return to familiar sights, sounds and smells: to my own house, family, food and coffee. It’s hard to imagine never returning home, as my parents and so many immigrants experienced. The fear of being forced to live where you don’t speak the language is hard to grasp.

Thank you for reading my blog, commenting and sending me messages of support. It means a lot to me.

I hope that this journey inspires us all to have more empathy for those fleeing tyranny, and to welcome newcomers as they try to make a new life in a place they never wanted to call home.

I wish you all a safe journey.

—Nancy

The Brooklyn Bridge to Manhattan. Home sweet home. ❤️

To read prior essays, click HERE.

11 responses to “Day #14 – My Roots Tour’s End”

  1. Nancy, so moved by this blog and your rich experiences. You write beautifully. I feel so grateful for our time together, but wish we had spentmore time sharing our spiritual journeys. Many thanks for sharing this.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Eloise for coming along in my trip. I too feel grateful to you when you welcomed me to my new job where spent a lot of time together. It was most certainly not enough to share spiritual journeys. Hope it’s not too late.

      Like

  2. Dear Nancy, Your daily posts were inspiring and heartwarming. You lived the dream that many of us have had of seeking and finding our roots. Much love, Yola

    Sent from my iPad

    >

    Like

  3. Nancy, that was a wonderful piece of writing. I can’t imagine the emotions you coped with. However, my point of view is: NEVER AGAIN! NEVER FORGET! NEVER FORGIVE!

    Like

    1. Marc, If you mean that we should not forgive the dead who did the dastardly deeds, that’s fine. How can you hold today’s generation, who had nothing to do with the war, responsible. They didn’t do anything. Germany today is in many ways more democratic than the USA; they certainly take many more refugees.

      Like

  4. Hilary Stieglitz Carmen Avatar
    Hilary Stieglitz Carmen

    So happy for you, Nancy! What a brave & wonderous journey you endeavored upon!
    It seems you met some great people and made some great memories.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks so much Hillary. It was an amazing trip indeed.

      Like

  5. Jennifer Kawar Avatar
    Jennifer Kawar

    Nancy, my curious, adventurous & undaunted friend(s – w/Jeffrey)! Your blog has been an emotional journey for this reader as well. Thank you for sharing!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you coming along on this emotional roller coaster 🎢.

      Like

  6. This is a powerful recap of your incredible journey into the past, Nancy. It’s been a pleasure reading your blog. Bravo!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Laura Abrahams Cohen Avatar
    Laura Abrahams Cohen

    Thank you for sharing this amazing and meaningful experience with us.

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a reply to Hilary Stieglitz Carmen Cancel reply