Essay #26 – Following In Their Hoofsteps – May 18, 2023

The sun shone on Aschaffenburg today.

Iris led us from the Schweinheim—“Pig-Home”—neighborhood, into the hills, to the old regional Jewish cemetery.

The arrow indicates the cemetery wall, seen across a cultivated field.

Jews who lived in Aschaffenburg were buried in the city cemetery we visited yesterday. For the regional cemetery, the Jewish community chose this larger site, atop a steep hill well outside the city, so it would not be taken for development as the city grew.

This cemetery was established in 1735. The last burials here were in 1942, days before the final destruction of the local Jewish community. Time passes and these people are forgotten even before the sandstone erodes. It is sad but that’s the way of the world.

My family replaced my great-grandparents’ original headstone. Time and weather has made many of the stones here difficult or impossible to read.
This stone, engraved after WWII, is in memory of seven of Aschaffenburg’s leading citizens, all Jewish Germans, who committed suicide after German authorities ordered their deportation to concentration camps in September 1942.

Our family members who are buried here could not imagine what was to come. Iris showed us the graves of Caroline Freund and Karoline Freund, graves we have never seen.

Caroline Freund born Feldmann in 1825
Karoline Wähler born Freund 1862

Iris told us that most Jews in this region were as poor as their neighbors. Until German society became more egalitarian in the late 1800s, many Jews could make a living only as peddlers or cattle dealers.

This path is part of the route Jews took to sell their wares and herd cattle from place to place.

The route was chosen to avoid towns where Jews knew they were not welcome.
On a pole holding the official sign with details about the “Jewish Path” and the nearby cemetery is a sticker that echoes one of the themes of my Germany journey: “No Person Is Illegal”.

The intensity of today’s walk where my ancestors and their cattle walked, was softened by the beauty of nature.

Now the path is used by walkers and cyclists, and by Christian pilgrims who pray at “stations of the cross”.

We had a lovely trek through the trees with birds singing. I heard cuckoos call. They sounded just like the clocks!

After dining with Iris—she is a wonderful cook and the perfect host—I need a rest and time to reflect.

Freund Street

I wish everyone peace.

To read prior essays, click HERE.

3 responses to “Essay #26 – Following In Their Hoofsteps – May 18, 2023”

  1. Tom Rheinstein Avatar
    Tom Rheinstein

    I visited both the Schweinheim cemetery and the Alstadt cemetery in Aschaffenburg last October, as I have ancestors buried in each cemetery. Each cemetery is well mantained and preserved.

    Liked by 2 people

  2. What a long day, again! And as usual, you’ve written a beautiful, thoughtful and inspiring post. Thank you.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. ilana tennenbaum Avatar
    ilana tennenbaum

    Nancy, thank you for sharing the details, pictures and thoughts of this amazing journey you are on. It must be such a mixed bag of emotions. I’m learning so much about our extended family and find it all fascinating. I’m so excited each time i open my mail and see a new posting! thank you again and safe travels!
    Lani

    Liked by 1 person

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